Category Archives: Surfing

Surfing History Facts

Surfing History Facts

The surfing history timeline seems to first show up approximately two to five thousand years ago in the  Pre-Incan civilization also known as the Mochica or Moche culture. Enjoy these surfing history facts!

The sea craft they used were called “Caballitos de Totora”,  which means ‘Straw Sea Horses’. These crafts were  fishing vessels, but from a study of their historical images, it appears they were also used for recreational sport.

After all, the Chicama, the longest surf-able wave on the planet, was right in their backyard. Close to the city of Trujillo, Peru, the Chicama is still ridden by eager tourist surfers today.

huge wave small surfer

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Surfing History Timeline – Hawaii

surfing history timeline Hawaii

Ancient Hawaii is considered their time period before the year 1810. The Kingdom of Hawaii was created in 1795 including all but the islands of Kauai and Niʻihau. In 1810 Hawaii as we know it today formed as a republic in 1893 and then became an American state in 1968.

Surfing in Hawaii was originally an art form and was entwined with religious rituals to either calm rough seas,  or to ask for protection while “wave sliding” in its mysterious and powerful forces.

The ancient Hawaiian surf boards ranged from nine to eighteen feet. The upper class, which included the priesthood,  had access to the best waves and excelled at the skill required to rule them.

They considered the best waves to be the easy rolling waves. The lower classes got the worst waves, the kind that modern surfers hope for.

Women surfed too!

All the Polynesians surfed, from Tahiti to what is now New Zealand.  Captain Cook’s seaman Joseph Banks recorded his observance of surfing in 1769.

The advent of Calvinist Christian missionaries suppressed surfing for a while because it demanded extreme modesty and behaviour from women. But not forever!

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Surfing History California

surfing history california Santa Cruz

This was in the mid 1880’s. They created quite a commotion successfully surfing the waves into the mouth of the San Lorenzo river, a challenging spot for the swimmers who were in the water to witness this marvellous sport.

Following that, redwood was exported to Hawaii and became a favorite wood for surf boards on the islands.

Another big event in 1907 that brought a surfer from Hawaii, George Freeth, was the opening of the Los Angeles-Redondo-Huntington railroad. To promote the railroad, Freeth surfed not only near The Huntington Pier, but was hosted up and down the California coast to demonstrate surfing.

Freeth was also a lifeguard and made an incredible rescue of a Japanese boat that got in trouble when he was in Oceanside, CA. Using his surf board he rescued every man on board. He received a Congressional Medal for that selfless feat.

Surfing At Wrightsville Beach NC USA

surfing at Wrightsville Beach NC

Surfing was imported into the East Coast of the USA in 1909 when a group of surfers led by Burke Haywood Bridgers was invited to come over from California and introduce the sport.

And it never left. Currently Wrightsville Beach hosts the Special Needs Surf Camp and the annual women’s east coast surfing competition.

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Surfing In Australia

Australia surfer 1914 Isabelle Latham

Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku (in the first tall image above) visited Australia giving surf board riding demonstrations and selected fifteen year old Isabel Latham (pictured immediately above) to ride with him on one occasion.

“She later recalled: “He paddled on to this green wave and, when I looked down, I was scared out of my wits. It was like looking over a cliff. After I’d screamed, ‘Oh, no, no!’ a couple of times, he said, ‘Oh, yes, yes!’ He took me by the scruff of the neck and yanked me on to my feet. Off we went, down the wave.” – Australian Geographic.

Isabel Latham later wanted to teach the Australian surfboard life-saving techniques in California but was barred from the Manly Surf Life Saving Club because she was not a man!

She inspired future female surfing champions, yet it is Duke Kahanamoku’s surf board on display in Sydney, Australia at the Freshwater Surf Life Saving Club.

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Surf History Of South Africa

vintage poster surfing in South Africa

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“Since 1965 South Africa has produced thirty World Champions and has won six team World titles.”  from the Surfing South Africa website, addressing the 50th Anniversary of the association. (Surfing South Africa went under boycott by international amateur and professional surfers during the years of apartheid.)

Surfing is traced as far back as 1910 in South Africa. Pilot Tony Bowman got bit by the surfing bug after reading Jack London’s description of riding the waves on Waikiki Beach in his novel the Cruise of the Snark.  Bowman settled in Muizenberg in 1921. He constructed his own conception of surf “boats” and corresponded with  the Honolulu Tourist Association to obtain photos of surfing. He was than able to copy the size  of the boards that Hawaiians were surfing on at that time.

Muizenberg became a popular resort for surfing and other water sports.

The Film “Endless Summer“, 1966 revealed the marvels of the waves around the South African coast at Cape St. Francis. For some incredible details about that film, read “The Secret History of The Endless Summer, the Most Influential Surf Movie Ever”  here.

Every sport has gone through the growing pains of gender and class issues. “Otelo Burning”  2012, depicts the personal and political struggle of a sixteen year old Zulu boy when his talent for surfing is discovered by an older (and white) man who introduces Otelo to the potentially glamorous life of stardom.

Best Surfing Movies Of All Time

surfing history California old beach wagon

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Opinions will differ so I took this list from here.

The Endless Summer 1966

Riding Giants 2004

Surfwise 2007

North Of The Sun 2012

Five Summer Stories 1972

Soul Surfer 2011

Step Into Liquid 2006

Morning Of The Earth 1972

North Shore 1987

The September Sessions 1972

Surf’s Up 2007 (an animated mockumentary)

Big Wednesday 1978

Point Break 1991

Blue Crush 2002

Gidget 1959

Surf Cam Malibu

surf cam Malibu

You can take a look right now at the Malibu surf cam! That web page  also provides links to web cams around the world. What fun to get a window on far away places.

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Are you a surfer? Or a ballet dancer in pointe shoes who might like to be one? I hope you enjoyed this brief surfing history timeline. Please feel free to leave a question or comment below!

Follow the Sedona Surfer Girl In Pointe Shoes Board on Pinterest!

 

Astounding Surfing History Facts
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Artificial Wave Pool Surfing

Artificial Wave Pool Surfing

TGIF! That’s what surfer wanna-be peeps in or near Austin Texas are saying this morning!  Artificial wave pool surfing has opened at 4836 E Hwy 71, Del Valle, TX 78617 today! And here’s the map!

artificial wave surf pool

History Of The Artificial Wave Surf Pool

1912 Palisades Amusement Park in Bergen County, New Jersey had a salt water pool. The water was drawn from the Hudson River’s saline waters. Rotating pontoons created an ongoing one foot wave. Were they surfing? No, but hey, it’s still 1912!

The huge and popular amusement park remained opened until 1971.

1927 Budapest, Hungaryhistorical surf wave pool Budapest

“Gellért Spa is famous for its main hall with gallery and glass roof, built in Art-Nouveau style.

The current bath complex and hotel was opened in 1918 and was expanded in 1927 and 1934 with artificial wave pool and with bubble bath.” – wikipedia

Photo from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/38/Budapest_Gell%C3%A9rtbad_Wellenbad_1.JPG/320px-Budapest_Gell%C3%A9rtbad_Wellenbad_1.JPG

This early wave pool might not be interesting to a California surfer girl, but, they were getting at an exciting idea!

1969 Big Surf opened in Tempe, AZ, USA. The video below is from when it reopened in 2010 after some refurbishing.

 

So, fast forward to the 21st C, here’s a list of surf wave companies from the Surfer Today website:

Wavegarden
Kelly Slater Wave Company
Disney’s Typhoon Lagoon
Malaysia Theme Park’s Sunway Lagoon
Siam Park (Murphys Waves)
FlowRider (Wave Loch)
Surfstream (American Wave Machines)
Webber Wave Pools (Liquid Time)

2001FlowrRider started a chain of Wave House waterparks opening first in San Diego. While the wave pool was central, these include restaurants, bars, performance stages and basically, a lifestyle or kind of hyper-lifestyle. Fun!

In Santiago Chile a Wave House opened in a huge mall complex. You can ride some waves and then get some pizza! Following that, you can peruse the retail establishments stocking board sports items.

Wave House Sentosa (an island) south of Singapore ramps up the fun on the isle of “peace in tranquility” (a Malay phrase).

2012 – in Mallorca Spain the 180 room Wave House hotel quintissentializes – or quintilescalates? – the surf pool lifestyle. Two wave pools on the beach front.  What’s not to celebrate?

2016-2017 . Twenty eight million peeps will get to surf at the new Wave House in the southwest Chinese city of Chongqing.

Changchun, the Detroit of China in the northeast will get their Wave House fun in 2017. There’s more coming too, and you can read about it on the Wave House site.

Here’s a video of Kelly Slater’s wave pool. He’s definitely having fun!

American Wave Machines John Luff – “Surf Parks are the key to making surfing a mainstream, commercially sustainable sport and to promoting surfing as an iconic lifestyle that transcends all nationalities and cultures.”

2013 – Virginia Beach, Virginia  at Juice Box Surf Center  “Riders will have the ability to surf indoors in winter and outside in summer. The guest experience includes surfing, shopping, spectating, food, and live music.”  Surfing championship, board making, et al!

2015at Dolgarrog in the Conway Valley, north Wales, Surf Kelly Slater

 

 

Snowdonia opened. With eighteen waves an hour, surfers can practice in the middle of the pool and beginners and children can learn near the edge. The water is clean, from natural reservoirs. The wave pools may never present the size of the wave you see immediately above – but the popularity of these pools is growing!

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Surfing In Wave Pools

Have you tried artificial wave pool surfing? Or, will you? What do you think? I’d love to hear about your experience,with,  or plans to try an artificial surf wave pool.

 

 

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Ballet Dancer Surfer Girl

Sedona is a YA/New Adult sci fi fantasy.

Surfer ballet dancer – her posse includes a black lab, a pelican, a cousin with an evil twin, an old surfer dude, and a huge black bear.

The loyal cousin was raised with her like a brother. The old surfer

pointe shoes and water
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dude exudes calm and shares wisdom beyond anything she’s heard from the family therapist. With fewer words.

Why does the rest of the world seem to conspire against her?  Including herself, with high self expectations and relentless self reproach.

The Ballet Training Schedule

Sedona has reached the end of her junior year at her performing arts high school in Malibu, California. Almost…Exams are over but here comes the final dance performance.

Rehearsals are intense. Class is just – tense.

She has had a helluva year sans boyfriend of several previous years.

She also lost her best friend to that bf of several previous years.  Her eleventh grade year was bleak, and date-free.

Except for the piano music in ballet class at school, and the pounding of the surf outside at home, she doesn’t want to hear much from anyone anymore.

Not from the bratty bunch of girls , the stalking fan club of thecyber bullying rumours at school gorgeous guy she’s in dance class with. An old friend, a buddy since third grade. Those snarky sophomores waste the long  glares and cyber bullying tweets on her.

(There are guys who tweet around about him too. Don’t they now wish they were in that sissy ballet training class!)

And seriously, not from the sarcastic dance teacher who really has it in for Sedona most days. What is up with that?

Navigating through a simple conversation with The Mom can get – complicated! When a teen has to be vigilant to avoid the triggers that lead to frustration, anger, depression or worse, well, that doesn’t always work out right?

The Dad adores her and and supports her in every way. But not so close up and personal, like when she was little. Days long gone.

To stay busy isn’t a problem, even without a social life. Running on the

dancing alone in waves
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beach, surfing, cross-training (weight lifting, Kettle Bells, extra stretching…especially those ankle and foot joints) fills every day up.

What’s better r’n’r than binge watching Battlestar Galactica with the Cuz and the sweet supportive nanny (now general manager of the household only-reliable-person in charge)? With fresh popcorn and churros?

Even the pelican doesn’t poop in her world, unlike the bratties at school. Trained since a baby, he chills on the deck with the dog.

The best of life – surfing, running, binge watching – and dancing every day. All distractions from lost love, peripheral parents, and mean girls.

surfer girl
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Best Ballet Summer Intensive Programs

Sedona can have her pick of any of the best ballet summer intensive programs. But her self-deprecating guilt has motivated her to work over the summer instead.

She knows she plays “poor little rich girl” in her head, way too much. Working in a hospice is her way of balancing life.

She can still keep up her ballet training schedule locally. Not that her summer plans turn out remotely like she thought they would!

Here’s a video of a Joffrey Summer School Intensive:

Buxton Deporter seeks representation for Sedona, the first in this YA/New Adult series.

Contact: bd@buxtondeporter.com.

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